Fur and Shearling Coat Care: Out of Storage for Winter

Fur and shearling coat care begins the week the coat comes out of storage, not the first cold night it is worn. A fur coat that spent the summer in a warm closet rather than cold storage has already lost some of the natural oil in the pelt, and the damage shows as dry, brittle leather on the skin side and guard hairs that break instead of bend. October is the month to find those problems, because a dried out pelt can still be conditioned now, while a torn one in January can only be patched.

How Do You Inspect a Fur Coat After Storage?

Inspect a fur coat in daylight by running your hand against the direction of the fur, then with it. Healthy fur springs back and lies flat. Fur that stays flattened, feels stiff, or sheds more than a few hairs into your palm needs professional attention before wear. Then check the places that fail first:

• Underarms and sleeve seams: look for splits in the skin where the pelts are sewn together.
• Collar and front edges: matted or yellowed fur here means skin oil, makeup, or perfume has settled in.
• Lining and hem: a lining that has pulled away exposes the leather side to abrasion.
• Shoulders: thin spots mean the coat has hung on the wrong hanger or rubbed against a bag strap.
• Smell: a musty odor is a sign of damp storage and should be addressed before the coat goes back in a closet.

Is Shearling Cared for the Same Way as Fur?

Shearling is a sheepskin pelt with the wool still attached, so it is cared for like fur on the wool side and like suede on the skin side. That makes it more vulnerable to rain than either material alone: water darkens the suede, and the wool side dries matted. A shearling coat caught in fall rain should be shaken out, hung on a wide hanger at room temperature, and allowed to dry fully before it is brushed. Never put a shearling or fur coat near a radiator, because direct heat shrinks the skin and sets any stain permanently.

When Does a Fur or Shearling Coat Need Specialist Cleaning?

A fur or shearling coat should be cleaned professionally once a season, ideally before spring storage, and sooner if it has been rained on, stained, or exposed to smoke. Fur is never dry cleaned in the conventional sense, because solvents strip the oils that keep the pelt supple. Specialist fur cleaning tumbles an absorbent powder through the fur to lift soil and oil, then glazes the guard hairs to restore their sheen and lie. Shearling is cleaned on the suede side and conditioned so the skin stays soft. At Sweetwater's Cleaners, leather coats start at $135, and fur and shearling pieces are quoted after inspection, because the age and condition of the pelt determine the method.

How Should You Store Fur and Shearling at Home During Winter?

Between wearings, hang a fur or shearling coat on a broad, padded hanger with space on both sides, never in a plastic garment bag, which traps moisture against the skin. Keep the coat out of direct sunlight, which fades fur and dries the leather, and keep perfume, hairspray, and lotion off the collar. The alcohol in those products dries the pelt and the oils in them attract soil.

Why Does Fur Need Cold Storage in the Off Season?

Fur and shearling need cold storage because the pelt is a natural skin that dries out above roughly 55 degrees and becomes a target for moths and carpet beetles in a warm closet. A professional fur vault is held near 50 degrees Fahrenheit and around 50 percent humidity, which slows oil loss, prevents mold, and keeps insects dormant. Cold storage at Sweetwater's Cleaners is $115 per garment for the season. Regular storage is $55 per garment for wool and cashmere that do not need a cold vault.

The routine for fur and shearling coat care is simple: inspect in October, condition or clean anything that is dry, stained, or shedding, hang it on a padded hanger all winter, and send it to cold storage in April. Sweetwater's Cleaners handles fur, shearling, leather, and suede at both of our shops, in Wainscott, NY and Hampton Bays, NY, with free weekly pickup and delivery across the Hamptons. The wool coats and knitwear worn alongside them are hand pressed, every garment, which is what French style means.